Friday, 30 December 2011

Kevnjan's big adventure.

Fri.30th. Dec.
Now I'm really angry!!  I typed up today's blog and I blinked and it disappeared.  Maria says it is saved somewhere but I can't locate it so I'm starting again.  We drove from Agrigento to Selinunte today along some decent road, the SS115 and through some gorgeous scenery.  This really is a beautiful part of the world, I'm a little disappointed that we're not seeing it in better weather.  We found a Lidl's and shopped, filled up with diesel and gas and had a coffee on the way.  Arrived about 12.30 and re-acqainted ourselves with Geert and Maria.  (and Tessa, the dog.)  I think Tessa missed us!!  After lunch Jan and I walked into the village and had a good look around, we're hoping to find a restaurant or other venue for new years eve.  Not much luck so far.  Will try again tomorrow.  There are a couple of possibilities.  It's a long walk from the site and I have to say that I'm concerned about Jan's hips, which seem to be causing her great discomfort at the moment.  I think we need more sunshine.  After dinner, shared some wine with Geert and Maria.  They amused us with a typical  camper van tale of getting stuck in a small town in the mountains and having to be rescued by 2 policemen.  Hell of a way to get a parking space close to the market!!   We had some fun and I took pictures and a movie.  I referred to them as Gert and Daisy, a comic couple from years ago, I hope they didn't take offence, I must explain tomorrow.  One day left of 2011.  Can start 2012 as a retired man.  Can it get any better than this??

Thursday, 29 December 2011

Kevnjan's big adventure.

Thur.29th.Dec.
Sat here after dinner of cold pork, sausages and salad thinking how lucky we are.  We left the site this morning and came to a car park near the Valley of Temples.  Paid €5 and can spend the night.  The saving on the site fee for a night paid for our entrance tickets and audio guide, very expensive.  Worth it though, I thought I'd probably done with Greek temples and ruins,( pics on Facebook tomorrow) until we spoke to Geert and Maria tonight and arranged to meet them in Selinunte tomorrow, home of more temples.  The weather was perfect today, much to our surprise, the forecast was rubbish.  Shorts and tee shirts order of the day.  The sights were spectacular and the scenery better.  It must be something in the summer.  Janet gets totally absorbed by these old ruins, touching the stones and imagining how it was 1500 years ago.  It makes it special to see how much pleasure she gets from it.  No electricity tonight so battery getting low.  No freecell tonight.  Book and another glass of wine then.  Ho hum!!

Wednesday, 28 December 2011

Kevnjan's big adventure.

Wed.28th. Dec.
Spent the night at the marina.  Bit noisy, dogs - just a fact of life in Italy, doesn't make it easier to put up with.  Cars up and down, mystifying!!  Still, this morning it wasn't raining, it wasn't windy and the sky was bright.  We set off to find coffee and gelato.  50% success.  Coffee delicious.  Hit the road and took a pleasant drive along the coast to Agriegento.  Arrived around 12.30 and had lunch.  Cleared out the garage and tried to get rid of the smell of cheap Spanish whisky.  Laid out in the sun for an hour, so warm, this is what it's all about.  Spent a couple of hours up in the old town of Agriegento.  Disappointing, we've been spoiled by so many fabulous towns.  Fish for dinner,site OK, internet connection not.  Ancient Greek ruins in prospect tomorrow.  Can't wait!! Think I'll have a whisky.

Tuesday, 27 December 2011

Kevnjan's big adventure.

Tues.27th.Dec.
So on we go.  Left club Picadilly this morning, owing the owner about €5 as I only had about €83 and the bill was 88.  Felt guilty but he could have taken a card.  Managed a Skype with the Birds and mother hen.  Weather was horrendous when we left, rain and gusty winds.  Pulled up at gas station for LPG.  Realised just in time that I had no cash.  How embarrassing.  Drove on until we got to Comiso, up in the hills.  A pretty enough town with more churches than banks and bars put together.  Got soaked, found a bancomat and got cash, found a bar and ordered coffee.  Had a strange chat with the owner, who spoke no English.  Offered to pay with €20 note, he couldn't change it!!  How embarrassing.  Free coffee.  It's been an odd day, we found a campsite at Falconara, half way between Gela and Licata.  He wanted €17 for the night and I was too mean to pay.  Drove on to Licata and we're now parked on the town quay overlooking the harbour.  Free parking.  Walked the town tonight after dinner, pretty in Christmas lights.  We'll have a look in the light of day tomorrow.  Couldn't find any gelato for Jan, it's getting serious now.  5 days!!  I kept smelling booze in the garage, tonight I discovered the bottle of Spanish whisky is broken - divine intervention?  Who knows.  Why do Italians take such delight in driving their cars to the end of the town quay when the only place to go is back?  It happens everywhere we go.  Odd or what?  I'm pleased to say that the Scotch, which was next to the Spanish in the garage is unharmed.  At least it was until now!!  Cheers.

Monday, 26 December 2011

Kevnjan's big adventure.

Mon.26th.Dec.
Pretty dull boxing day.  Weather grey, cleaned van, had walk, ate panetone, drank coffee, waved goodbye to Geerd and Maria, had lunch.  Think it's time to move on tomorrow, find some life, or some ruins to visit, re-ignite the adventure part of our adventure.  Good news though, the fridge is working again and we have lots of cooked meats which I barbecued last night, in stock.  We have some of the most stinking cheese, it's delicious but really is anti social.  Jan's cold seems to be holding off.  Hannah has Facebook and she and Jan spent time chatting today, I think that was good for both of them.  Jan is looking at Skype regularly now to see who's online.  Evening with TV in prospect, wouldn't be so bad if we didn't know the adverts by heart.  Am I complaining?  No, life's good.  Think I'll have a whisky.

Sunday, 25 December 2011

Kevnjan's big adventure.

Sun.25th.Dec.
Happy Christmas to all our readers.  Janet was very good this morning.  Usually she has me awake at 6am on Christmas Day, today she managed to suppress her excitement until 6.55am.  We had some tea and biscuits with the promise of a full English later.  We exchanged gifts around 9am and she surprised me with a new jumper.  I gave her some expensive shower stuff and moisturiser, etc.  Then took her to shower to help her familiarise herself with it.  Smells delicious.  Poor Jan is still fighting off a cold and didn't feel so good.  Coffee and breakfast helped to get her ready for a walk.  The weather was fair with warm sunshine but cool wind.  We walked to the end of the road and scrumped some lemons for honey and lemon cold cure.  We sat outside in the sun for a while then realised that Anthony was trying to Skype.  Had good session with Ant and family, Derek promised to drink some light and bitters for me down the pub.  What a nice man, promised not to get me drunk!!  We were disappointed not to Skype with Karel, Pete and Mum in Australia.  Must try again tomorrow.  Got Julie and family though, the girls have got laptops for Christmas and are now Skype candidates.  Geerd and Maria joined us for a drink this afternoon, we talked and decided how best to put the world to rights.  Good company.  Have had a few problems with the fridge.  Poor Jan lost a whole carton of Butter Pecan ice cream yesterday and the meat in the freezer defrosted.  Had a clean out today and saved most of the meat, had to cook it tonight and will eat it cold over the next few days.  Dinner was fillet steak, I did it on the barbecue and it was fabulous, melted in mouth.  Fridge seems to be working now, strange how the gremlins get in the works.  All in all, a good day.  Time for one more whisky before bed.  €1.99 panetone was delicious, enormous, need help with it.

Saturday, 24 December 2011

Kevnjan's big adventure.

Sat.24th. Dec.
Another glorious morning, clear blue sky and sunshine.  Christmas eve at last!!  No shopping today, just take it easy.  A little housework, then let the day unfold.  Had a couple of hours in the chair getting some sun.  Very relaxing.  Invited to Geert and Maria's this afternoon.  Had siesta and at 4pm. presented ourselves to help out with the eating of dulce and drinking of excellent whisky.  Enjoyed a pleasant couple of hours playing Yahztee and cards.  Good company, who could ask for more.  Home at 7pm and delicious dinner of chicken in sauce made from recipe obtained from Becky.  Lovely relaxing day, hope tomorrow is as good.  More whisky before bed!!

Kevnjan's big adventure.

Fri.23rd.Dec.
Lovely morning, bright and sunny.  Packed up van for trip to local supermarket to get a few bits of shopping.  €55 on what??  A few bits!!  No booze - it's easy to spend here.  Went back to the van, couldn't fit it all into the little freezer.  Oh well, we'll just have to eat it.  Went to Donnalucata, not much there, bought a saucepan.  Had some coffee, walked along the sea front, sat in the sun.  Returned to site around 12.30 and had some lunch, smoked salmon on crusty bread, (Ah that's where the money goes.) Jan did a little hand washing and I sat in the sun and put together Jan's first Christmas surprise, a father Christmas that climbs up a ladder, singing Jingle Bells.  She was thrilled, I don't normally do Christmas stuff but she's been very good.  I could get fed up with Jingle Bells pretty soon though.  We went for a walk on the beach and when we returned Geert and Maria had turned up, it was good to see them, later, after dinner we spent an hour with them and compared notes and blogs.  I sneaked back to the van and prepared Jan's second surprise, fairy lights for the van.  There were so many I had to string them all around the outside.  They look fabulous, flashing and changing colour and generally brightening up the place.  Jan's face when she saw them was a picture.  She loves stuff like that.  So now we are ready for Christmas, I've got some brownie points in the bank and the weather's set fair for Christmas Eve.  Might have a whisky!!

Thursday, 22 December 2011

Kevnjan's big adventure.

Thurs.22nd.Dec.
Packed the van up this morning and took of for an adventure.  Nowhere to walk within easy reach.  Headed for Modica, up in the mountains.  Satnav woman took us through Scicli, a small but busy town with nasty narrow streets, nasty satnav.  Scraped through unscathed and made it to Modica.  A pretty town with two lovely churches.  We entered the first and were delighted to find a school orchestra and choir rehearsing for a carol service, their music was a pleasure to hear in the wonderful acoustics of the church.  Spent half an hour there and got Jan to leave, reluctantly, to continue our exploration.  The weather was cool and it's clear that winter has arrived in Sicily.  Let's hope it's not going to get much colder.  We like warm.  Neil's birthday today, happy birthday Neil.  Back on site now and preparing to barbecue pork chops, time for a glass of wine.  What a life!!

Wednesday, 21 December 2011

Kevnjan's big adventure.

Wed.21st.Dec.
Since we came away we've experienced some pretty amazing storms.  Last night we had the daddy of them all.  Gale force winds, torrential rain and thunder and lightening like you've never seen.  The van was rocking in the wind.  Didn't sleep much.  At 3.50am Jan demanded a cup of tea.  The weather has continued most of the day.  We did manage to walk to the supermarket, needed potatoes.  The owner of the site told us it was about 1 K. He lied, it was about 2 miles, each way.  The wind was howling and it was cold.  Still, the excercise did us good.  We have spent the rest of the day in the van and are now watching Judge Judy.  I'd like it on record that this adventure is not all beer and skittles.  Not that I'm complaining you understand.  Weather forecast for tomorrow is for unbroken sunshine.  We'll see!!  Jan gave me an early Christmas present today, a baseball hat. Came in useful, it kept the rain off, very chic!!  Cottage pie for dinner tonight.  Look forward to that.

Kevnjans big adventure.

Tues.20th.Dec.
Spent most of the day washing.  Changed the beds, worked out how to use the washing machine, tied lines between trees and generally did washing stuff.  Hard work, it has to be done, Jan insists on it!!  Our new site is pretty remote, some distance from the shops, but right by the beach.  Due to our industrious day we didn't explore, by the time all the laundry was put away we were good only for resting.  Geert and Maria turned up
in the afternoon and had coffee with us.  They have found free parking up the coast and are wild camping, (they have a generator) I wouldn't be surprised to see them here before Christmas although I don't think they were keen on the site.  We are now friends on Facebook and it was fascinating to read their latest comments, not sure whether they are in Dutch or German.  Can't wait to check out their blog!!  My resolution to post my blog on the day was broken when we lost our internet connection last night, so it is now Wednesday.  I'm tempted to tell you about last night but I'll save that until later.  Jan's taking paracetemol in an effort to stave off a cold.  I'm having to take good care of her, don't want to be cooking Christmas dinner!!  Established contact with Dinnage at last!!  No a minute too soon.

Monday, 19 December 2011

Kevnjan's big adventure.

Mon.19th.Dec.
I've made a conscious decision to do my blog on the day rather than following day.  This is mainly because I think I forget what I did the previous day.  Is this old age creeping on?  Today Janet announced that she wanted to move on, we'd been undecided but I think we both felt that the site we were on was not suitable for  Christmas.  We told our friends, next door and they said they'd decided that too.  We packed up and headed for Carrefours, a shop where Jan had been told she could buy a mysterious gift.  Maria had given us the address and we put it into the satnav.  We missed it and drove several kilometres past and had to turn around.  That is so aggravating, the store has changed names.  As we were driving back we saw them driving past us and assumed they had been to the store and done their shopping already.  We waved, found the store, did what we had to do and came outside to find their van parked next to ours.  I can't tell you how good it made me feel to know that other people get lost too!!  We took off south to find the site we'd selected and arrived about 2.30pm about 12 Ks west of Sampier,  right on the beach.   Found a spot and parked up.  Problem with the satellite dish.  Shame, it was a terrific spot.  Moved with the help of a guy who I assume works on the site.  He put us on a pitch, didn't like it.  Moved again.  It was cold, raining and I was getting fed up.  We're plotted up now, not sure I'm altogether happy.  It's quite nice here, but quite remote.  We need to explore our surroundings tomorrow but I have a feeling we may not have found our ideal Christmas location yet.  Maria and Geert are not here, wonder if they have found something better.  Chicken for dinner tonight.  I think I'm ready for my first whisky of the day.  Watch this space.

Kevnjans big adventure.

Sun.18th.Dec.
Not much to report today.  I took Jan for a long walk into town, we looked in shops, she bought a few bits.  It was a cool day.  We reached the sea front which we hadn't seen previously and had a slice of pizza, some cake and coffee for lunch.  We walked all along the sea front and back through the town, miles, feet were sore, legs ached but that took care of the calories from lunch.  Had siesta, dinner, watched a dreadful film about Christmas and gratefully turned in for the night.  Only event of note was Skyping the Smigiels, always a pleasure.  Put a video of Jan having a Jantrum on Facebook.

Sunday, 18 December 2011

Kevnjans big adventure.

Sat.17th.Dec.
Walked miles today exploring Siracusa.  Lovely city, very laid back, easy going.  Jan was looking for gifts, I found fish for dinner.  The weather, while dry, was cool, fine when the sun was out but cool when cloudy.  Jan was not really dressed for cool, but didn't complain too much.  We were out for maybe 4 hours, walking, and returned for a siesta.  Our neighbours invited us over for tea.  They have a van called a Bavaria, I've never seen one before, about the same size as ours.  It's a cross between a Frankia and Burstener and I've been dying to see it.  I'm green with envy, it has everything you could wish for, so much space, 2 double beds, storage everywhere and all the gadgets.  If I can get my hands on €125,000 I'm buying one!!  For now though, I love my van and it's taking very good care of us.  Fish was delicious, van stinks, must give it a good airing tomorrow.

Friday, 16 December 2011

Kevnjan's Big Adventure

Fri.16th.Dec.
We've become quite friendly with a Dutch couple who seem to be turning up at all the sites that we use.  This is the fourth one we've seen them on, quite a coincidence when you consider the huge number of sites and sostas available.  Today we were talking to them and discovered that they were planning to drive down to Siracusa with a view to possibly spending Christmas there.  We were planning the same thing.  Anyway, we set off and after an hours shopping in Lidls we headed for Siracusa.  On arrival, we found our Dutch friends already encamped.  Not sure about this site though.  It's in the city and about a 15 minute walk from the old town.  The facilities are OK.  We shared a bottle of wine and Jan had a coke, but when it got dark it became pretty cold so we retreated to our vans.  I don't know whether we'll stay here for Christmas, tomorrow we'll explore and see what's around us.  The jury's out.

Kevnjan's Big Adventure

Thurs.15th.Dec.
Today we did work stuff.  Jan did some more washing, I washed the van.  Big job.  I do it quite often but it doesn't get any easier.  I feel good because it gives the other people on the site something to find amusing.  I know it's only a matter of time before it's their turn.  This afternoon we took the bus to Castelmola, the small village above Taormina.  Jan wanted to see the castle.  I suppose it is as high again as Taormina and the views are even better.  Sadly, the castle Jan wanted to see was on the top of the mountain next door and she had a tantrum.  To make matters worse there was no gelato to be had in the whole village.  Got the bus back down and went shopping for a special gift Jan had set her heart on.  Got some brownie points there.  Got to report that the €3.99 whisky is Spanish!!  Serious error here, must be sure to read the label in future.  Any similarity between this and Scotch is purely coincidental.  Not for the squeamish.  Still, only bought 2 bottles - could be worse.  Moving day tomorrow, off to Siracusa, hope to spend Christmas there.  Have to check it out.

Wednesday, 14 December 2011

Kevnjan's Big Adventure

Tues.14th.Dec.
Well, today we got to Taormina.  It was one of those wow moments.  We took the bus, the ride was dramatic, how these guys do this every day I don't know.  The road was just one U bend after another, there is little width and heaven knows who buys the buses but they are just too BIG.  Still, when we arrived at the bus station, in perfect safety we had to walk up the hill to the old town.  We walked through the town and came to a piazza which afforded  a view which was just breathtaking.  The sky had cleared and there was a perfect view of the snow capped Mount Etna across a vista of sea and rolling hillside. The town itself was charming and picturesque but the best view are to be had from the ancient Greek amphitheatre at the top of the town.  We were lucky enough to have a warm, clear day to enjoy this spectacle.  After a thorough examination of the amphitheatre, we headed back to the piazza and gorged ourselves on pannini, gelatti and fizzy water, feeling extremely priviledged to be there, surrounded by such beauty.  To make matters even better, I have to report that yesterday I found the cheapest Scotch yet.  €3.99!!  Haven't tried it yet but full report will follow.  Home to barbecued pork chops and sausages.  What a day.

Tuesday, 13 December 2011

Kevnjan's Big Adventure

Tues.13th.Dec.
Left Santa Theresa to head for Giardini Naxos.  Discovered that road south was restricted to vehicles under 2.8metres high.  Had to drive north for 20 miles to join autostrada for alternative route.  At last discovered how to use GPS co-ordinates in sat nav.  Very useful, brought us directly to a site recommended by our new Swiss friends.  The facilities are good and we have a fabulous view of Mount Etna, clouds permitting.  Walked around the town and Jan was open mouthed at the shops and Christmas fare on offer.  I think I'm going to have difficulty preventing her from decorating the van, all the vans here are done up like Christmas trees, several English couples here, very unusual.  They should have more sense!!  Taormina tomorrow.

Kevnjan's Big Adventure

Mon.12th.Dec.
Wow, good news and bad news.  Had leisurely breakfast then went off in search of train times for our trip to Taormina.  Train at 8.50am followed by one at 1.20pm.  Time was 9am.  No bus service suitable.  Had to go back and tell Jan our trip was postponed, not a good idea as she had spent some time getting herself ready in nice dress and make up.  The good news was the sun had come out and it was getting on for 70 already.  Time for some laying in the sun.  After a bit of a pout we agreed that the best plan was to move on to Giardini Naxos, down the coast tomorrow and visit Taormina from there.  Spent the rest of the day laying in the sun, perfect.  This evening we were determined to eat pizza cooked forno al legne.  (in a wood fired oven) Presented ourselves at a Mexican pizzaria around 7.45 and ordered starters from Italian language menu.  Got funghi dinamite,  very spicy stuffed mushrooms and gambas flaming, which was exactly that, king prawn, on fire.  Very exciting.  Main course was seafood pizza and an Italian pizza.  Very good, didn't think the wood fire made too much difference though.  Excellent meal, washed down with couple of beers and some fizzy water.  €36 was quite cheap for eating out in Italy.  A day that started badly had finished with a flourish.  Moving day tomorrow.

Sunday, 11 December 2011

Kevnjan's Big Adventure

Sun.11th.Dec.
Got Jan up at 7 to see sunrise.  After being on west coast of mainland and watching sunsets for the last few weeks it made a change.  Mainly grey day today but not cold.  Took a walk this afternoon and found a circus.  Saw an anteater, some pelicans and seals in pens on car park.  Skyped Barb for over an hour and had steak for dinner.  Delicious.  Train to Taormina tomorrow.

Saturday, 10 December 2011

Kevnjan's Big Adventure

Sat.10th.Dec.
Up bright and early, ready for next stage of the big adventure.  Sicily!!  Two Dutch couples who'd arrived yesterday are going to Sicily today as well, they've been before so we picked their brains.  Nothing to it really, just turn up at the ferry, buy a ticket and get in the queue.  As we left Palmi we saw the dustmen emptying bins so they're not on strike - shame, it would have been an acceptable explanation for the litter problem.  Did some shopping on the way out of Palmi then hit the road for Villa  San Giovanni, the port of departure for Messina.  The A3 motorway clings to the side of towering cliffs hundreds of feet above the coast and the views are amazing.  At least that's what Janet told me, I kept my eyes on the road for the most part, it's not much of a motorway.  We arrived at the port and I was surrounded by men who wanted to help me buy my ticket - for a fee.  Didn't need them, if you come this way, ignore them, they're a nuisance you can do without, not much better than beggars really.  Talking of which, we saw a new dodge today, A girl stood by the ticket machine at the entrance to the toll road, took out the ticket as we approached, handed it to us and waved a cup at us expecting a donation.  Got to admire their cheek.  Anyway, got the ticket for the ferry, €80 return, didn't think that was too bad, valid 3 months.  On board we bought a savoury doughnut filled with cheese, a cream cake and some coffee and settled down to enjoy the voyage, it only took about 25 minutes and we were in Sicily.  Headed south out of Messina, not a nice place to drive, and hit the motorway.  Arrived at Sta. Teresa di Riva and located campsite.  Think we'll stay a few days, find our feet and prepare for the push south.

Friday, 9 December 2011

Kevnjan's Big Adventure

Fri.9th.Dec.
Good news!  Woke up this morning, it wasn't raining, the washing on the line was dry and the washing from last night is drying.  Rode our luck and put in another load.  The sun came out and it was a lovely morning.  We climbed down an overgrown path down the cliff face to the sea front to take a walk.  We were sad to see that the Italian disease of scattering vast amounts of rubbish in picturesque seaside locations is alive and well here.  There was litter everywhere, I can't describe how much, and small knots of local people lined the sea front chatting, socialising and totally ignoring the mess which was ankle deep around them. I find it difficult to believe that it could happen anywhere else.  Perhaps the dustmen are on strike, it's the only logical explanation.  I'd like to think so.  I must enquire.  We couldn't get back to the site quick enough, to think that in summer this place is full of holidaymakers, Italian and foreign, they must clean up their act around here then.  We got the chairs out and found a puddle of sunshine fighting it's way through the trees and followed it around.  It was warm and pleasant and we enjoyed it for about 3 hours.  Got the washing dry, chilled out.  Nice relaxing day, tomorrow Sicily.  Watch this space.

Thursday, 8 December 2011

Kevnjan's Big Adventure

Thur.8th.Dec.
Woke up to pouring rain again.  Shame, still, we're English, we can take it.  Took the opportunity to change the beds.  By the time we'd finished coffee it had dried up a little.  Walked back up the steps to have a good look around Tropea in daylight.  Very pretty yet it occurred to me that if we left our houses and flats in such a poor state of exterior decoration people would be horrified.  Here it seems that it lends character to have paint flaking and render falling off the walls.  Wish I could get away with it!!  I just don't understand it and yet it works.  We wandered the streets for a while and visited the cathedral.  The plainest and most understated church of note we've seen in Italy.  We decided we'd seen enough and headed for the van and departure for Palmi.  Satnav woman was in good form, twice trying to take us under low bridges, fortunately we spotted them in time and turned around.  I'm going to have to re-enter the van's dimensions and hopefully pre-empt any repeat.  We had an interesting drive altogether.  Satnav woman directed us off SS18 towards SP10, a minor road, heading towards the autostrada.  After about a mile or so we encountered a sign saying road closed.  I was contemplating an about turn when a local man stopped and indicated that it was safe to proceed.  We did so and sure enough, although the road was broken up in places and cracked, presumably through subsidence it was passable with care.  The scenery was stunning, rolling hills and valleys full of orange groves and olive trees.  So glad we persevered.  We cleared the barrier at the other end, sighed with relief and took off along a good road, for about half a mile, then another road closed sign!!  Ignored that one too.  No problem, road to ourselves, same gorgeous scenery.  Another few miles and hit the autostrada.  Quite a relief really.  About 6 Ks before Palmi turn off, still on motorway satnav announced we had reached our destination, a camp site.  This was quite obviously not the case and satnav woman was switched off in disgrace having used up her last chance.  Followed directions in CC book and found site.  Too many trees, no satellite signal, still, got electricity and washing machine.  No tumble drier, put up line, hung washing out, it's just started raining.  Another load of washing in machine.  May be here some time.

Wednesday, 7 December 2011

Kevnjan's Big Adventure

Wed.7th.Dec.
Spent a reasonable night at the marina and slept well when the rain wasn't beating on the roof and the thunder wasn't thundering.  Up bright and early, headed back for Pizzo.  Found space to park in the street on the way out of town.  Set off down a long staircase through narrow picturesque streets in the direction of the centre.  The views were every bit as dramatic as we expected, the clouds closed in and the heavens opened.  We sheltered in the doorway of a building under renovation and waited for the rain to stop.  It stopped, unfortunately the water kept on running down the stairs like a river.  We have video which we will post when we get hook up.  Spent an hour exploring the town which was much like so many others, pretty but unremarkable.  At 12.30 the moment could be postponed no longer.  We sat outside an old fashioned gelateria, in bright warm sunshine and ordered two Tartufi, speciality of Pizzo, ice cream, one dark chocolate, the other white chocolate and shared them.  Janet lapsed into the trance like state which befalls her when she gets something very special in her mouth!!  A strong coffee to follow completed lunch.  Jan is still not recovered.  We left Pizzo after that, nothing was going to beat it.  We are now in Tropea, parked in a free car park under the cliffs, by the beach with the town looming above us.  Very pretty.  Went up for a quick look and a beer tonight.  Looking forward to closer inspection tomorrow.

Tuesday, 6 December 2011

Kevnjan's Big Adventure

Tues.6th.Dec.
Finally dragged ourselves away from the comfort and security of Diamante today.  Drove down the coast road, the SS18 with the intention of finding somewhere in Pizzo to spend the night.  The scenery was dramatic, on the right side a wild sea spraying salt across the road and on the left farmland rolling up to mountains shrouded in grey, almost black stormclouds.  The wind and rain made it a less than comfortable drive.  We shopped at a large Spa supermarket shortly after leaving Diamante and to our annoyance found a Lidls, 50Ks down the road. Familiar cereals and crispbread at last.  Not to mention €5 bottles of whisky!!  Stocked up on essentials.  Arrived in Pizzo around 3pm and found nowhere to stay.  Had to go on to Vibo Valentia where we are parked in the marina.  Very pleasant, must get to Pizzo tomorrow though, special Gelato town.  Jan can't miss it.  Full report tomorrow.

Kevnjan's Big Adventure

Mon.5th.Dec.
Lots more rain overnight and this morning it is very windy.  Not a good day to be driving so we stayed put.  I went to top up the dongle so we don't lose our internet connection and we needed some shopping.  Jan walked a little way with me then decided to go back to the van in case it got swept away by the sea.  The sea was very wild and turbulent and Jan was worried that it was going to come up over the beach and on to the site.  When I got back from the shops we were still OK.  Had a walk after lunch, the sea really was quite dramatic.  Around 7pm there was a knock on the door and a local man wanted to warn us that there was a possibility of a high tide and we should move back from the front row.  OK we moved, there were six vans and we all moved back, it was a wild night but I don't think the sea ever threatened the front row of pitches.  Still, we are now more or less packed away and ready to move on tomorrow.  Spaghetti bol for dinner.

Sunday, 4 December 2011

Kevnjan's Big Adventure

Sun.4th.Dec.
After a wild stormy night things settled down a little in the morning.  I was delighted that despite rain that would make your head bleed, my repair to a leaking window had held good.  We walked up to town and bought a couple of bits in the supermarket and some bread for our German friends next door who had lent us some sealer to fix the window leak.  We decided that rather than head south we would stay here with the comforts of electricity and such until the weather improves.  For an hour or so we even managed to sit outside but by mid afternoon the weather was turning bad again, squally showers.  We adjourned indoors and skyped with Anthony and Louise and later with Barb.  More bad weather forecast for tomorrow.

Saturday, 3 December 2011

Kevnjan's Big Adventure

Sat.3rd.Dec.
Went to the market today, bought fresh figs, Jan loves fresh figs, grapes, socks and fish.  It rained this afternoon, definitely time to head south.  Skyped with Julie and family, Hannah's birthday today.  Christmas films on CBS Drama.  Nightmare.  Still, it will all be over in a few weeks.

Kevnjan's Big Adventure

Fri.2nd.Dec.
Took a walk into Diamante this morning, nothing special really.  A small town with narrow streets and a harbour.  Weather was warm, came home, made coffee, sat in the sunshine.  Another walk in the afternoon, pretty dull sort of a day really.  Were looking forward to bufala sausages and steak on the barbecue for dinner.  Sausages were dreadful, the steak overcooked.  An unusual occurrance, a disappointing dinner.  Not to worry, tomorrow will be better.  Bit concerned about the clouds which gathered in the afternoon, not used to seeing those.  Weather forecast not good.  May have to head south.

Thursday, 1 December 2011

Kevnjan's Big Adventure

Thurs.1st.Dec.
Just drove about 10Ks today to Diamonte, to a sosta which has been recommended by just about everyone we've met in the last 3 months.  It's right on the beach, and a perfect spot, all the facilities and €8 per night.  Jan looks like she's won first prize in a lottery.  We watched yet another perfect sunset tonight.  I think we'll stay a few days.  It's a good spot to get the bus to places we want to visit.  Problem is that the weather is still so warm that we're tempted just to lay in the sun.  Every day is good, it's just that some are better that others.  We feel very privileged.

Kevnjan's Big Adventure

Wed.30th.Nov.
Well, you know how it is!!  There you are, in the sunshine, driving along one of the worlds most beautiful roads, the SS18 along the west coast of Southern Italy, the sparkling Mediterranean, hundreds of feet below you on one side and impossibly tall cliffs towering above you on the other.  What makes it more special is that you're driving a 26' long van and the road was definitely built for cars - or bikes!! Suddenly, just after a village called Aqua Freddo, (cold water) a man stops you and informs you that there is a landslide ahead and you have to turn back!!  Bad news, all the nasty bits of road you thought were behind you now have to be gone over the other way, that's after you've found somewhere to turn around.  Such is the life of the Italian adventurer - never a dull moment.  Turned around, looked at the maps and found an alternative route.  I have to say we saw some fabulous scenery driving over mountains and through wild valleys.  It took us about 50Ks out of our way but the roads were good and very quiet.  I think the locals go into hibernation at this time of the year.  That is the one great advantage of exploring in the van, in the winter, very little traffic.  I imagine it would be hell in summer.  Eventually we found a deserted campsite, just south of Scalea and for €10 parked next to the beach, had electricity and facilities of a sort, though pretty basic.  Watched another magical sunset, had a glass of wine and settled down for some TV and reflection on another interesting day!!  

Tuesday, 29 November 2011

Kevnjan's Big Adventure

 Tues.29th.Nov.
Spent a pleasant and reasonably quiet night by the sea.  This morning set off to town in search of fish for dinner.  We found a fish shop which Jan flatly refused to buy from because it was dirty and even the flies looked reluctant to land on the fish!!  Set off after strong coffee, fishless, to drive the coast road between Castellbate and Palinuro.  Wow, almost an action replay of the Amalfi coast drive.  The scenery was spectacular with sheer drops of hundreds of feet on our off side.  The sea is crystal clear and sky blue.  As we approached Piscotta, a village highly recommended for a visit, we saw signs urging caution and walking pace due to road subsidance.  They weren't exaggerating.  This is earthquake country and clearly they have problems keeping the road together.  The surface was  broken up and cracked, the tarmac was crumbling and there was a steep upward gradient, we had to stop and select first gear and the van slid backwards.  Poor Jan was in bits, got to the bottom, selected first and most serviceable piece of road and slowly climbed up the hill.  Heaven knows how heavy lorries cope with it!!  Still, felt that with that behind us all would be fine.  Negotiated our way through the pretty village and suddenly was confronted by a ridiculously narrow steel bridge without warning and a sign saying no lorries.  Took a chance and got through with inches to spare on either side.  On the other side a woman parked opposite parked cars making it impossible to pass, after much hooting of horns she emerged and moved.  I suppose there have to be days like this but they are tough on the nerves.  It certainly makes kevnjans adventure adventurous!  We arrived in Palinuro around 1pm and unable to locate the sosta shown in the book, made our way to the port/marina.  Parked up and not moving.  Another picture postcard of a place,( video on facebook) water so clear you can see the bottom, 20 feet deep, full of fish and men all around with fishing rods totally unable to catch anything.  We managed to find a fishmonger on the way and have red snapper fillets and king prawn for dinner.  Must go, almost ready, more of the same tomorrow.  What an adventure!!

Monday, 28 November 2011

Kevnjan's Big Adventure

Mon.28th.Nov.
Well, after a hard morning's housework, washing and packing away we finally got out of our comfort zone in Paestum and hit the road.  It was with some reluctance that we left that site, once the man with the dogs had left and peace was restored, it was just like home again.  We didn't get very far!!  We drove about 20Ks down the coast to a small fishing port called Santa Maria di Castellbette.  We are parked on a jetty overlooking the sea, the water is crystal clear and the town is picture postcard.  We walked along the waterfront this afternoon and took in the sights, found a phone to wish Mum a good journey as she's heading for Australia on Thursday.  Went shopping this morning, replenished food stocks and couldn't resist €5 bottle of Scotch.  Will probably have a snifter in a minute.  Jan's busy cooking, I may have to walk her into town after dinner for a gelato.  We have no hook up tonight so no TV and have to preserve battery in computer.  I think we may have to put some serious miles in tomorrow.

Sunday, 27 November 2011

Kevnjan's Big Adventure

Sun.27th.Nov.
Took a walk this morning to the cash point at the post office, need cash to pay for site tomorrow.  Phoned Arnie and had fun giving him website so he can access blog at library.  If you're reading this Arnie, glad we persevered.  Spent a few hours on the beach, the sun is still beautifully warm.  The only blot on the landscape was the Italian family who arrived yesterday with 4 (yes4) dogs which didn't stop barking from morning till night.  What is it with these people who feel the urge to take their 4 dogs out of their comfort zone to ruin peoples' quiet enjoyment of the weekend?  Last weekend Terrets girl - this weekend, dogs.  We look forward to Mondays!!  Should we really be complaining?  Maybe it's just the bus driver in me.  Skyped Anthony and Julie and families this evening. That was fun, now Jan's cooking dinner - chicken and I'm winding down after another action packed day.  Good to see Villa didn't lose to Swansea.  Moving day tomorrow!!

Saturday, 26 November 2011

Kevnjan's Big Adventure

Sat.26th.Nov.
Well, we made it to Agropoli today.  It's a pretty enough place but nothing special, we planned to buy fish for dinner after a good look around.  Spent about 3 hours walking about, the light and weather made it perfect for taking pictures and by the time we'd eaten lunch and had a gelato all the shops were closed for the afternoon.  No fish for dinner.  As luck would have it we'd bought some buffalo steaks yesterday so had to have those instead.  Fabulous flavour, cooked on the barbecue, on the rare side , with a pepper sauce.  Good job we're doing plenty of walking and excercise, we're eating very well at the moment.  Still, we've cut out the biscotti and cut down on the ice cream and booze.  Might have to take it a bit easy tomorrow, moving on on Monday.

Friday, 25 November 2011

Kevnjan's Big Adventure

Fri.25th.Nov.

  • More of the same boring stuff today, bit of shopping, lot of sunbathing.  Weather fabulous, brilliant blue sky and warm sunshine, deserted beach.  We walked about a mile up the beach this morning, hardly saw a soul.  This afternoon we walked about a mile in the opposite direction and passed no-one.  Tired out after so much activity, had to take siesta, followed by cup of tea.  Then it was time to return to the beach to watch perfect sunset.  It's tough.  We had to shop for meat and bought some pork chops for dinner, put them on the barbecue, delicious.  My drying out time is over for now, bought 1.5lt bottle red for €3.20  very drinkable.  Now time for TV.  End of another perfect day.  Tomorrow must make the effort to visit Agropoli.  (Weather permitting.) 

Thursday, 24 November 2011

Kevnjan's Big Adventure

Thurs.24th.Nov.
I owe you all an apology.  Since we arrived here on Friday last week nothing of note has happened, with the exception of our day at the temples.  The man who runs the site told us that it was €17 per night or €70 per week, and never wanting to miss a bargain we opted for at least a week.  We have electricity, water, showers and all other mod cons and with a deserted beach only a stone's throw away and warm weather it would be foolish not to make the most of it.  Today we walked back to the Poste Italiene and found it open so posted a few bits off for the grandchildren.  Parents please note, not to be opened until Christmas.  After that it was time to lay on the beach in the sun for a couple of hours before lunch.  We do have a couple of complaints however, the flies are awful and it starts to cool down about 2pm.  We have to go for a siesta then but it's not too much of a hardship.  Anyway, sorry it's been a bit dull but hopefully there will be some excitement next week.

Wednesday, 23 November 2011

Kevnjan's Big Adventure

Wed.23rd.Nov.
Washing day.  Change beds, head for the laundry.  While Jan's doing the washing I finish off the polishing the van.  Weather cloudy but dry, ideal for our purposes.  Managed to polish out most of the scratches from the trees which lay in wait for you wherever you go in Italy.  We get our own back by picking the oranges.  This afternoon the sun came out and we had open air siesta.  Had some stuff to post home so set off on 2K walk to the Post Office, found it closed.  Do it all again in the morning.  No problem, plenty of time to spare.  Third day off booze today, tiring of diet coke.

Tuesday, 22 November 2011

Kevnjan's Big Adventure

Tue.22nd.Nov.
It rained overnight and the day started cloudy.  An ideal day to visit the old ruins of the Greek city of Poseidonia, AKA Paestum, which is why we came here in the first place.  It was a 2 K walk to the site and a good walk around the ruins but worth it, the temples of Neptune, Hera and Athene are spectacular. With a little imagination it's possible to see how it would have been 2,500 years ago.  What I find wonderful is the thought that if the dead of those times could come back the mountains and countryside around here would look largely unchanged to them.  (apart from the obvious roads and traffic of course).  Anyway, after a turn around the museum, full of fascinating artefacts, our walk back to the van was a very long one, (no buses here).  We decided to eat in the restaurant on the site tonight, lasagne to start, and linguine with sea food for main.  That was it, take it or leave it. It was OK, not much meat or seafood in sight but it saved Jan cooking.  We won't be going back!!  Live and learn.  

Monday, 21 November 2011

Kevnjan's Big Adventure

Mon.21st.Nov.
Did other  half of the van this morning.  Very warm.  Jan wanted coffee  so I paused and joined her for a cup, she was still talking about swimming.  Finished the van, felt hot, suggested we get swimsuits on and take a dip.  Big mistake, very chilly, managed 9 or 10 strokes and gave up.  What a wimp!!  Seems to me that winter is not the best time to swim down here.  May try again when we reach Sicily.  I suppose it's a bit like the sea at Wittering on a very hot August day, cold.  Took a long walk down the beach towards Agropolis  and walked back along the road, saw butchers and couldn't resist buying a couple of steaks for the barbecue.  Enormous ribs.  Very expensive but hey, we don't eat out so we deserve a treat.  Had siesta after lunch, cup of tea and off to the shop for a few groceries.  Greengrocer sold us some kaki, a strange fruit, some salad and some oyster mushrooms to go with the steak.  Jan has never cooked them before but they were fine.  The steaks were great, Jan couldn't eat all hers so steak sandwiches for lunch tomorrow.  This is the first day off the booze since we came away, no whisky or wine, I wonder if I'll ever get to like diet coke as much as Jan.  Off to see the ruins tomorrow.

Sunday, 20 November 2011

Kevnjan's Big Adventure

Sun.20th.Nov.
Quiet day today, (except that is for the unfortunate Terrets sufferer who is camped behind us and periodically shouts at the top of her voice expletives in Italian.)  Polished half the van this morning while Jan did some housework.  The sun got so warm that I left the other half of the van until tomorrow and we went to relax on the beach.  Tan's looking good again.  Took a couple of long walks along the water's edge and paddled but couldn't persuade ourselves to swim.  Maybe tomorrow. Trouble is it starts to cool down around 1.30 - 2pm the sun is very low now, shouldn't complain though.  I see much of England is under fog.  Jan cooked meatloaf for dinner, excellent, with cauliflower carrots and mash.  Nice change.  Drank the last of my whisky.  Thinking of having a few days off the booze.  We'll see.  Miss Terrets and family have vacated site and peace has been restored.  Just the noisy dogs in the distance to disturb the peace.

Saturday, 19 November 2011

Kevnjan's Big Adventure

Sat.19th.Nov.
Well, as promised took it a bit easy today, turned the van around so the tree that was stopping our satellite reception was no longer a problem.  We now have TV.  Walked to the shops and got a few bits and the tabacchi to get phone card.  Sorted out washing and put up washing line.  Drank coffee and took chairs to beach where we sat in the sun and told each other how lucky we are!!  After lunch more time on beach and long walk, to match the long walk we took this morning.  Dinner of coq au vin and skype with Julie and family.  Phoned Sam to wish him happy birthday and settled down to whisky and TV.  Better day.  Hopefully, weather permitting similar day tomorrow,~(without the washing.)

Friday, 18 November 2011

Kevnjan's Big Adventure

Fri.18th.Nov.
What should have been a nice easy day today turned out to be a bit of a nightmare.  A short drive along a straight coastal stretch of road to an agritourismo site just outside Paestum looked a doddle.  When we found it the site was overgrown with seeding grass and Jan is allergic to grass seed.  Some trees along the drive inflicted some light scratches on the van and they wanted stupid money to stay there.  Put another site in satnav and upon arrival found it closed.  After a while driving around found a site by the beach about 1K from the temples at Paestum and checked in.  Pitches small and difficult to get into, too many trees again.  Trees are my worst enemy with the van such a size.  Anyway, settled in now, put pictures on Facebook.  May stay a week as it's  €17 per night or €70 per week!!  Could do with chilling out and with the weather so good it's a great spot.  Spent a couple of pleasant hours on the beach today.  Jan cooked spag bol tonight.  It just gets better and better.

Thursday, 17 November 2011

Kevnjan's Big Adventure

Thur.17th. Nov.
Spent a couple of hours in Sorrento this morning.  Pretty enough but nothing to get excited about.  Set off on our trip down the Amalfi coast about midday.  Pain and pleasure come to mind in equal portions.  The road, as I expected was narrow, winding and tortuous.  The scenery was magnificent.  Again the weather was perfect, the sky clear and blue and the sunshine warm.  The sea was blue and it all looked like a postcard.  Again, the whole experience was tainted by lunatic Italian drivers with no manners or concept that other people need the road too!!  We stopped for lunch in a layby overlooking Positano, the sea and the cliffs, a perfect setting.  We had a fresh loaf, ham and cheese and sweet tomatoes.  Unforgettable moment.  We drove on and came to Amalfi where we tried to park, hopeless, they don't want camper vans there, they had a liner anchored in the bay and prefer people to stay in hotels.  They're welcome to it.  To be honest I was glad to see the back of the Amalfi coast when we arrived in Salerno.  We'd come off the main road at Vietri sui Mare and taken a cobbled road down to the sea front, narrow and nasty (as if I hadn't had enough stress today).  Thought we might find somewhere to camp for the night.  No such luck.  Headed for site at Pontecagnano south of Salerno, didn't like the man on reception or his prices, or his site so we're now parked in a quiet street, opposite the beach, having watched a perfect sunset over the Mediterranean.  We'll spend the night here, Jan's a little disappointed because I refuse to barbecue our fish on the pavement.  She's cooking tonight.  Mixed feelings about today, I'd have liked to have seen more of Positano and Amalfi but the van is too big a beast to be pushed around those little streets.  My advice, hire a car or scooter and it's so much easier.  Now going to have a well earned bottle of wine.

Wednesday, 16 November 2011

Kevnjan's Big Adventure

Wed.16th.Nov.
Wow.  This morning we finally left Pompeii and headed for Sorrento.  Set up satnav to avoid tolls and motorways.  It was in a playful mood.  We drove through towns, small and large all with one thing in common, narrow streets and suicidal drivers, (two things in common - well three actually, throw in enormous lorries).  I have seldom had such a nerve wracking time behind the wheel, when we eventually got onto the coast road, the SS145 we entered a tunnel about a mile long and it was the first time all morning I'd got into fourth gear.  As we exited the tunnel we realised it had all been worthwhile.  The view which greeted us was of Vesuvius towering over Napoli across the bay.  We pulled in at the first layby and just drank it in.  The day was perfect, clear blue skies, warm sunshine and crystal light.  Persevered with the drive through other towns with narrow streets and wide lorries until we reached the free car park on which we planned to spend the day and possibly the night.  Our luck was in again!!  There were a bunch of people erecting a circus big top, we were told in short order to find alternative parking.  So here we are in Sorrento Piano, a smaller resort just east of Sorrento.  Walked down to the marina and had lunch in a small bar, delicious sandwich of ham and  mozerella, good coffee and a gelatto.  Home for siesta and then off to shops.  Tomorrow must try to see Sorrento before taking off to Amalfi, mixed feelings about that, apparently the views are to die for and so is the road!!  Wish us luck.

Tuesday, 15 November 2011

Kevnjan's Big Adventure

Tue.15th.Nov.
Not much to report today.  Still in Pompeii, this morning Jan announced that she wanted to do some Christmas shopping.  We walked the length and breadth of the town looking for stuff!!(not sure what!!)  Managed to spend some money, so after coffee made our way back to van for lunch and lay down in the sun.  Flies were awful again and drove us indoors.  Beautiful day denied us by flies.  The sun was shining from a cloudless sky and temperature around 70.  We blame the rubbish which is everywhere.  Siestaed inside and had early dinner, around 7 with the intention of walking into town for gelatto for pudding.  After half a mile Jan informed me that she was too cold to eat ice cream and we returned to the warmth of the van.  (That's a first.)  The evenings and nights are cold, brilliant clear skies, great in the day when the sun is shining.  No complaints.  Must move on tomorrow, escape the flies, hopefully and see Sorrento.

Monday, 14 November 2011

Kevnjan's Big Adventure

Mon.14th.Nov.
Very proud of Jan tonight.  We took a bus trip to Vesuvius today.  Got talked into going on a wreck of an old bus done up to look like a tram with wooden seats.  Very uncomfortable ride around lots of hairpin bends.  Recommend find another bus, for €10 you can do better.  On arrival at car park on the mountain we paid another €8 for the dubious privilege of walking the last 1000 metres up to the caldera.  A bit of a slog on ash and rocks but had to be done.  Jan struggled a little but didn't complain.  At the top the views were tremendous although there was a haze, and over Napoli a thick layer of smog.  Couldn't have asked for a better day though.  Looking into the crater of the volcano it was noticeable that it wasn't filled with rubbish, something we were pleased to see, although judging by the rest of the countryside, it's only a matter of time!!  It's such a shame the scattering of rubbish at the roadside is so common. We had been told to be back at the bus at 1.10pm and suddenly realised we had only 15 minutes to get back.  It was a difficult and unpleasant rush downhill  and we got there just as the bus was leaving.  Lucky, unlike about 6 or 8 people who were left behind.  Got back to the van about 2.30pm and were badly in need of a lay down.  Had siesta and tea about 4pm.  Phoned mum and relaxed for rest of day.  Tomorrow we'll explore the town of Pompeii and take it easy.

Sunday, 13 November 2011

Kevnjan's Big Adventure

Sun.13th.Nov.
Lazy start to day.  Phoned Arnie.  Then thought we'd walk to the bancomat, (cashpoint) to get some new cash (spent the old stuff).  Walked about 2 miles before we found one.  2 miles back and Jan thought it would be a good idea to pick some oranges off the trees around us.  One of the girls who worked on the site provided us with a ladder and I got to work.  We haven't tried them yet, may need ripening.  Left site and headed for supermarket to get important supplies.  Bought an expensive bottle of wine, €2.50, a Sangiovese.  Looking forward to seeing if it is better than the cheap stuff.  Booked onto new site, Pompei Parking.  Much better, more space, less trees!!  Can recommend it unlike Zeus.  Washing machine but no tumble drier.  Managed to dry washing on line, lovely day for drying, spent an hour in the sun but flies spoilt it.  Had siesta, cup of tea, short walk and back to van for 3 hours of Skyping.  Barbecued two large pieces of salmon, delicious.  Ice cream for pudding and TV until bed time.  Wine OK but no better than cheap stuff.  Vesuvius tomorrow.  

Saturday, 12 November 2011

Kevnjan's Big Adventure

Sat.12th.Nov.
One of those days today!!  Took a walk down the hill to Capodimonte and had a look around the church of Santo Ennerious, St. January.  Nice church!!  Reason for going was really to get a couple of pictures looking across Napoli from up high.  Worth the walk.  Phoned Julie while we were out and had the cheapest coffee since we arrived in Italy, 75c. each, very good it was too!!  Left our car park and headed for a site in Pompei which had all facilities including laundry.  Got into awful scrape, got under low bridge by inches and fought our way up narrow road against angry Italian motorists who had to move over and give way.  Not something they ever do willingly or with good grace.  Found site eventually and thought our problems were over.  Oh no.  Trees everywhere, low trees, narrow roadways and almost impossibly small pitches.  An ordeal not to be repeated.  Camping Zeus is the name of the site.  Give it a wide berth if you are ever in this neck of the woods.  Found a pitch, got set up and went to do washing.  Only one machine working, tumble drier out of order.  Set machine, €3.50 and discovered it wasn't washing properly.  Strung some rope between trees, (at last they came in handy!) and managed to get most dry.  Man in reception most unhelpful.  Site €17 per night.  17 less 7 for botched washing.  Cheap night.  Tomorrow moving onto another site, along the road with washing machines that work.  Re-wash washing!!  If time will do Vesuvius.  Jan's dinner saved the day.  

Kevnjan's Big Adventure

Fri.11th.Nov.
Decided to leave the van where it was and take bus and train to Pompelli.  €2.80 each!  Public transport is terrific value over here.  Took us about an hour and a half but enjoyed the journey, Napoli is enormous and sprawls but colourful and never dull.  Pompelli was amazing, you see pictures but nothing can prepare you for the reality.  It's like visiting any other town except that there are no roofs and no residents.  (Except stray dogs and cats.)  Jan loves to touch the stones and pillars and imagine people walking where she is now walking, 2000 years ago.  We walked the site for almost 6 hours and probably saw less than half of it.  The weather was perfect, high 60s and clear blue skies.  Lovely day.  The journey back to Napoli on the train was made all the more pleasant as the sun was setting over the bay.  Home for spag. bol and Skype with the Smigiels and Kenny. Worked well for a change, we're encouraged that it may work at the weekend with the kids.  So far we've not had much luck in that direction.  Sat. must move on and find laundrette as a matter of urgency.

Thursday, 10 November 2011

Kevnjan's Big Adventure

Wed.10th.Nov.
Well, I don't know what all the fuss is about.  Left early, 9.15am on the bus, destination Napoli, got the wrong bus and went miles out of our way but got some idea of the size of the place, it's enormous and sprawls.  When we got to Garibaldi station we located the tourist information office and obtained a map and some advice as to where to go.  (Only the Italians would name a station after a biscuit!!)  Armed with our map we headed for the old town and visited a cathedral, the Duomo, very impressive, decorative.  A couple of churches  later we had lunch and watched the world go by in a narrow cobbled street full of shops selling Christmas decorations.  Jan says the place is wonderful for shopping and maybe the cheapest in Italy.  The place teems with people and there is a constant noise of traffic and people.  The ubiquitous scooter riders seem to be exempt from the ban on traffic in these old streets, as do any motorists who choose to ignore it.  We reached the museum of archaeology, which I was looking forward to and discovered that around half the rooms were closed for a variety of reasons.  €6.50 each to see half a museum seemed a bit rich to us.  Jan used the loo and we bid them farewell.  Imagine going to the British Museum and finding half the exhibits off limits.  It happens a lot here.  We walked miles again, as we do and found Napoli to be colourful, easy to walk and not at all scary, (unless you're crossing the road) I truly believe that one of the major reasons for cars failing their MOT test here is that the horns are worn out.  I believed the constant use of the horn over here was a myth.  It's not.  It is a never ending cacophony of differing volumes and notes.  Can get on the nerves.  I don't feel inclined to spend another day here, although I'm sure there is much to see. Pompelli tomorrow, will leave the van here and go by train, don't know whether we will spend the night here tomorrow although to be fair, it was surprisingly quiet last night and we slept well.  We'll see, time for a whisky and to light the barbecue.  T bone steaks tonight!!  What a life.

Wednesday, 9 November 2011

Kevnjan's Big Adventure

Wed.9th.Nov.
Decided Mondragone has provided us with sufficient mosquito bite and it's time to move on.  Washed the van before we left.  Thought we'd find a quiet spot by the beach on the way to Napoli to chill before the madness of the city.  Easier said than done.  This part of the coast is dirty and neglected, out of season, if people could see the rubbish on the beaches and at the side of the road they wouldn't holiday here in the season.  We found a spot around Monti de Procida, not far from Napoli, on the beach, surrounded by hotels, closed for the winter.  The beach was strewn with bottles and occupied by stray dogs.  We had our siesta there and headed for a site at Pozzouli.  Couldn't find it, got ensnared in the most horrendous rush hour traffic and witnessed 7 or 8 of the worst pieces of driving I've ever seen.  The sort of driving people warn you about but you just don't believe possible.  Seeing's believing!!  By this time it was dark and we made the decision to head for site in Napoli and be done with it.  So here we are, a couple of days earlier than expected on a car park, €22 per night inc. electricity, amps insufficient to boil kettle.  Still no-one said it was going to be cheap.  Weather has been a bit dull last few days but not cold.  Looking forward to some more sun.  Jan cooked lovely dinner tonight, pork and veg.  Early night tonight.

Tuesday, 8 November 2011

Kevnjan's Big Adventure

Tues.8th.Nov.
Busy morning.  Changed beds, cleaned carpets, prepared van for trip to town to do washing at laundrette.  Fortunately before leaving, checked location on laundrette and discovered it was a laundry!!  No good to us.  Then we were offered the use of washing machine on site.  Saved us a trip and ensured we stay at least one more night.  Had a repeat of the fun in the cold shower and got bitten alive by mosquitos.  This is one of the disadvantages of warm weather in November.  As readers of Jan's Facebook page will know, she cut my hair this afternoon but we had forgotten to put the no.2 comb on the clippers, I have a shaven head.  Doesn't bother me too much because I tend not to look in the mirror too often.  Jan's taking a while to get used to it though.  More washing tomorrow, may spend one more night here, it's a treat to hear nothing but the ocean through the night and wake up to a view of the beach.

Monday, 7 November 2011

Kevnjan's Big Adventure

'Mon.7th. Nov.
Went to bed at 9pm. last night, tired out.  At 12.30am woken by loud disco music, Sunday night, amazing.  Didn't go on for too long thankfully and after that slept like a baby.  A fair morning, not sunbathing weather.  We walked up to the town along the beach, a long walk but pleasant, had coffee and found Wind shop to straighten out our internet questions.  Thankfully the man in the shop spoke a little English and was able to identify our problem.  He needed the key/stick to rectify it and I didn't have it with me.  Arranged to return with it this afternoon.  Bought king prawns and sea bass for dinner, €15.  Walked back along main road, called in at shop for bread and were given a sample of mozerella cheese.  Bought some and needed beef tomato to keep it company.  Walked back to van, had fresh bread, tomato and mozerella for lunch.  Delicious.  Had siesta and walked back to town to resolve internet problem.  A round trip of at least 3 miles, (2nd time today.)  Dinner tonight of king prawns in garlic, cooked by Janet and Sea bass cooked by me on barbecue was sensational.  Whisky to finish.  Bedtime.  Miss my scooter!!

Kevnjan's Big Adventure

Sun.6th.Nov.
It's been one of those days!!  Where to start?  OK. went to bed around 9.30 last night, was woken around 12.30 by long noisy firework display.  Bonfire night, must be English ex pats around somewhere.  Got back to sleep only to be woken around 3am by horrendous thunderstorm and rain.  Dozed until around 6.30, made tea and decided to make an early start on the road.  Drove to Gaeta, parked by the port and watched fishermen trying to untangle ropes on their tenders which had been hopelessly tangled by last nights storm.  We drank coffee and enjoyed the show.  Our main purpose for being in Gaeta was to find a Wind shop to get them to sort out my internet connection.  We should have known that everything was closed on Sunday mornings.  Decided to head for Mondragone, down the coast where the sosta guide said there was a site with all facilities open.  Put the address in the satnav and let it do it's stuff.  I have previously discovered that our satnav has a peculiar sense of humour and today it chose to take us on a mystery tour through the mountains in the opposite direction to our destination!!  After 20 or so Ks we just were so taken with the scenery that we kept going.  Jan and I have never driven such a beautiful, scenic road, it's just a shame it wasn't taking us where we wanted to go.  We persevered until we got to Arce when we stopped for lunch of Gorgonzola sandwiches and common sense took over.  SS83 is the road and anyone in the area who travels it will not be disappointed.  We headed for the A1 autostrada and our original destination, Mondragone.  Got there around 2pm and found the campsite, La Duna.  Run down, laid back, large restaurant and music venue, right on the beach.  Hook up, sea view, fabulous!!  Connected to internet - amazing, did internet stuff.  Had shower in cold shower, no hot water, the place is basic but Jan and I amused ourselves scrubbing each other down.  I think the two Italian families who shared the site with us were not amused!!  They left an hour or so later leaving us alone on the site.  Fine by us.  Dinner of left over cottage pie, green beans and cauliflower.  Bed at 9pm, exhausted.  How can having so much fun and relaxation be so tiring?

Sunday, 6 November 2011

Wed.2nd.Nov.
This is starting to get complicated.  Some of my notes are going on the blog by cut and paste and disappearing from Word.  Don’t know how to retain them, save doesn’t seem to work.  I don’t have internet connection tonight so this will have to stay on word until I can publish it.  Today we said “arrividerci to Rome.  Had mixed feelings, not sorry to leave the site and the constant cacophony of barking, but Rome definitely grabs you and won’t let go easily, Jan feels the same.  We fought the traffic and found a free sosta at Castelgandolfo, the home of the Pope’s summer residence.  We combed the lakeside for a sosta which had hook-ups and other facilities but only found a car park where the facilities were locked up and no hook-ups for €10.  Returned to the original one without the view of the lake but free.  We were both tired out after Rome and a long shop!!  Had siesta and slept for nearly 2 hours.  Jan prepared  a spaghetti bol and we took a walk before dinner.  We walked up the hill from our nondescript car park and Jan said, “How do you know which way to go.”  I replied that it’s always uphill in Italy to anything worth seeing.  How right I was.  We struggled uphill and up several flights of steps and suddenly came upon the archway into the old town of Castelgandolfo.  It was a feeling akin to that when you find a £20 note in the street.  A complete surprise, a jewel, in soft street lighting.  Italy just keeps throwing up these pleasant surprises.  We walked down a narrow street to a balcony overlooking the lake which reflected the lights from all around.  Magical.  November 2nd. and we’re walking around in shirtsleeves at 7pm.  We promised ourselves another look in daylight tomorrow and headed back for dinner, downhill!!  Clever Jan has used some old bread to make some bread and butter pudding – a taste of home.  We feel very privileged.  We are starting the southward part of our journey now and I suppose the next big destination is Naples.  We have been warned to avoid it but I don’t think I can.  How can you say you’ve done Italy when you’ve left out Napoli??
Thur.3rd.Nov.
Took another look at Castelgandolfo in daylight this morning.  Just as nice.  Spent a pleasant quiet night last night, parked on part of a street set aside for camper vans.  No noise, no dogs barking, just birdsong and kids going off to school.  We made the decision to head for the coast, the weather was sunny and pleasantly warm and drove down to Lido di Latina, our first view of the Mediterranean since we were in Ibiza a year or two ago.  Parked up on the beach, had lunch and took off for a walk along the sand.  It’s good to be back on the coast, we like the sea!!  Not a public phone to be found here for a mile or so in either direction.  Came back for siesta and Julie texted to put off our call until tomorrow.  Phoned Ian this morning, it’s most strange that he’s not getting my e-mails.  He says they are hoping to come out around 10th. Jan and join us in Sicily for a week or so.  That should be fun, looking forward to that.  About 6pm moved van 500 yards from beach to deserted car park with beach on one side and field of cows on the other.  No traffic passing and disturbing our peace now.  Dinner of assorted cold meats, cheese and salad, cold remains of bread and butter pudding.  Nice cheap red wine, classical music on stereo.  What could be better??  Feeling very relaxed and very lucky.
Fri.4th.Nov.
Got to be quick, battery almost flat after 2 days without charging.  Had an excellent night, no dogs barking, no traffic noise.  This place is just about closed for the winter, like a ghost town, we have it to ourselves!!  We got the bus to Latina this morning and I bought a stick and sim card for unlimited intnernet access.  Should make life much easier if it works, cost me €89 for 5 months.  The whole transaction took place in Italian and it takes 24 hours before I can access the internet so we wait with baited breath!!  As I’ll have no battery by morning we’ll have to wait until we have some electricity supply.  Latina was not
Sat.5th.Nov.
Bonfire night.  Forgot all about it.  Not much to report.  One of those days, selected 2 or 3 sostas, with hook up from the book and they were either closed or not there.  Eventually pitched up at a cafe, south of Sperlonga where one of the sites should have been and the owner invited us to overnight n his car park.  Charged up the computer in the cafe and tried out the stick to get online.  Needless to say that was unsuccessful so tomorrow we have to find a Wind shop so they can show me where I’ve gone wrong.  Very frustrating day, hope dinner in the cafe will make up for it.  Was looking forward to getting the football results and publishing the latest paragraphs of the blog.  Suppose it can wait until tomorrow.  Sean texted me today to tell me off for spelling Naiya wrongly, quite rightly, so here is a mention for Naiya with her name spelled correctly, as it will be from now on!!  Hope to have more interesting news tomorrow

Tuesday, 1 November 2011

Kevnjans big adventure.

Tues.1st.Nov.
All Saints Day today, that means St. Kevin's birthday.  Another month away from England completed, not feeling at all homesick!!  This will be our last day in Rome, for now at least.  We head off to Villa Borghese, a large and beautiful park with several churches and museums.  The art gallery is so popular that the first available tickets are for Thursday.  Too late for us.  We have our picnic whilst listening to a classical guitarist busking, and enjoying the sunshine.  Just a chill out day.  Jan wants to get silver charm for her bracelet as a souvenir and we manage to find a coliseum.  Had to have a gelato to celebrate.  Home about 5 and a cup of tea refreshes us.  Pizza for dinner in the site restaurant, very good, although the service is on the surly side.  Won't be sorry to leave really, the dogs have spoilt it and some of the staff have a strange attitude to the guests.  Won't be using this site again!!  Anyway, Rome has been brilliant and we'll never forget that.  We lose our internet connection tomorrow, I'm thinking I might have to invest in a key/sim card to have it available at all times.  Must look into it.

Monday, 31 October 2011

Sun.30th.Oct.
Up at 5.45am.  Jan is determined to see a procession we’ve been told is taking place from Castel San Angelo to St. Peters.  Fair enough!!  We miss the train by minutes and waited half an hour for the next.  A walk along the embankment and we arrived at the castle right on 8am.  It was a pleasant experience to walk the streets without crowds of people.  Something we would remind ourselves of later.  A few people were congregating in the piazza, the women, heads covered by white lacy scarves.  A band started to arrive in dribs and drabs and it was clear something was occurring.  We walked up towards St. Peters and drank some coffee, and waited.  Eventually, at about 9 we saw some action.  A man addressed a growing crowd, in Spanish, the band struck up and incense burners were ignited.  They were off, singing a slow march dirge, men in purple robes carrying a platform with a large and heavy looking crucifix.  Those women swinging the incense burners and other pilgrims, not helping the carriers, walked backwards, very slowly.  I know that Jan had expected to see gaudily dressed clerics carrying religious paraphernalia and was a little disappointed, but it helped to pass the time.  We made our way to St. Peters Square where a girl offered us a tour of the Vatican museum, including the Sistene Chapel for €25 each.  After some hesitation we took up her offer, attracted mainly by the promise that we would not have to queue!!  By now there were thousands of people in the square, most of them in the queue.  The guide was brilliant, an American who knew his subject well.  We pushed and shoved our way with the rest of a group about 30 strong to the entrance of the museum, a walk of at least half a mile and just made it inside before it closed at 12.30.  We then were given a detailed explanation of what we would see in the Sistene chapel, prior to going in as silence is demanded inside.  There was then the ordeal of half walking, half running through the crowds in the museum to get to the chapel before it closed.  As we approached the chapel down a staircase, jammed in a crowd four wide and steaming it became clear that there was a similar crowd coming up a staircase from the opposite direction.  Horrendous!!  What a scrum, we pushed and shoved our way into the most beautiful room in the world and all I could think was, “get me out of here” , how sad!!  We fought our way to the back of the room and found a little space where we could view the walls and ceilings in relative comfort and I have to say I now know what all the fuss is about, spectacular artwork and I would hate to have missed it but the whole experience left me disappointed.  It should have been a unique and enjoyable event in my life and I felt a little let down.  It was a relief to escape at the end of the tour and explore the wide open spaces of the cavernous St. Peters Basilica.  Enormous, I’m tempted to say, just another church but even in a country full of churches this one is special.  We stayed maybe 30 minutes but then had to go off in search of gelato and beer.  The whole morning had been an endurance test, I ached from head to foot, I was carrying a rucksack which was not particularly heavy but awkward and Janet, although uncomplaining was clearly suffering too.  Found gelateria and administered ice cream first aid.  Headed for home.  This sightseeing is not for the weak and unfit, there were people in our party in wheelchairs, how their carers coped I don’t know.  An unforgettable experience!!  A word of advice for anyone reading this and planning to stay at Camping Flaminia.  There is what I would guess is a dog kennels nearby and the only thing which has spoiled our stay here is the constant, relentless barking of a large number of dogs, on one night I don’t think Jan slept at all.  Apart from that it’s great.  Monday morning, a lay in and get some housework and washing done.  Maybe venture into town in the afternoon and enjoy Rome by night.  Watch this space.
Mon.31stOct. Took it easy this morning.  As promised, did some washing and housework.  Put some stuff on facebook and had scrambled eggs for lunch.  Another beautiful day, cloudless sky.  After lunch decided to have an hour’s siesta before setting out for Rome.  Laid down, dogs started barking and two workmen set to work with the noisiest leaf blowers known to man.  Not a chance of a kip!!  Took myself outside and laid in a chair in the sun, trying to ignore the noise.  It will be a relief to get away to somewhere quiet (although I’m not sure such a place exists in Italy).  Took the train into town, walked to Vatican to post cards to get Vatican post mark on them.  Walked back to Via di Corso, Jan’s favourite street, checking out all the jewellers on the way.  Looked for two restaurants recommended in Lonely Planet Guide, both no longer in existence!!  Found a small place with an attractive menu and took a chance.  Fabulous!!  Started with wild boar smoked ham, truffle and pecorino cheese, exquisite!  Next was tagliatelli, with red snapper roe and truffle, delicious with a main course of Rabbit stew for me and Lamb chops for Jan with French fries and spinach.  Accompanied by beer, red wine and fizzy water.  For sweet, tiramasou, coffee and brandy completed a sumptuous and memorable meal.  A great way to see in my birthday.  The bill was horrendous but heh!!  You only live once.  Birthday tomorrow.




                  

Mon.24th.Oct.

Oh dear!! I cut and pasted the last week's entry onto my blog and it's disappeared from my journal. Now I have to figure out how to restore it or I'll have a big hole where the words should be. Today was a big work day. Started out changing the beds, then had a good sweep and dust. Said goodbye to Hans and Claudia who were heading for more baths at Saturnia. They invited us but there is a limit to my enthusiasm for sharing hot springs with lots of people. Went into Viterbo, found launderette and did washing. ( That is Jan did washing while I sat in cafe with Wifi and did computer stuff.) Good to know that the blog is out there and there are people reading it. Found a parking space and had lunch, toast and some fabulous smoked prosciutto and Gorganzola cheese. (Must be fattening.) Next went off in search of camping shop. As usual fell foul of the pausa and had to wait an hour to replenish toilet fluid, rolls and other stuff. Bought ground sheet for outside the van when on sites, try and keep the grass and mud out of van. Also bought extending brushes for cleaning van and windscreen, should have bought these long ago. Now Jan expects me to clean the van more often!! Next to supermarket for more food. Where does it all go?? Decided to return to Montefiascone and take advantage of free parking, electricity etc. Had splendid dinner of pork chops, assorted veg and mashed potatoes with gravy. If I could have met the pig which provided the tasty chops I'd have shaken his trotter and patted him warmly on the back. Delicious. Clever Jan. Tomoorrow I'm thinking of having a quick look around Viterbo and heading for Rome. Must break away from this sosta, too convenient and cheap.

Tues.25th.Oct.

That's it then, made the break. Did as we planned, quick look at Viterbo, couple of phone calls and hit the road for Rome. Arrived at a site in Flaminio, about 8 years from the centre. It's got everything, including a German youth brass band who are playing the Vatican tomorrow. They set up this afternoon and rehearsed, giving us a show which we thoroughly enjoyed. We spent the afternoon sitting in the sun and chilling. Tomorrow we begin to examine Rome. Jan's very excited, so am I.

Wed. 26th.Oct.

Woke up to sound of pouring rain and thunder. Shame, but there's no rush, not going out to spend the day in Rome soaking wet. Bought weekly tickets for the Rome transport system, bus, tram underground and railway. €16 each, that's what I call value. Decided to take the bus into town and have a walk around, too wet to take the open top bus. Arrived at Piazza di Poppolo and immediately saw the Rome we'd been hoping for. Walked along the Via della Corso and saw more churches than you could shake a stick at. Almost as many churches as shops. Jan loves the shops, they're in a class of their own. Took forever to get to the end of Via della Corso, sidetracked by sights on all sides and Trevi Fountain in particular. Spectacular, it's enormous, nothing prepares you for the size of it.

Marched up the Spanish steps then back down again. We took four hours to get from one end to the other and were rewarded with the spectacle of the Palazzo Venezia, and enormous white building which Musselini hijacked to use for his lodgings. Beyond that we could glimpse the Coliseum, place we're looking forward to seeing tomorrow, it was time for a drink. That was a shock too, a beer and a large bottle of water, €14. It was almost worth it for the view of the palazzo and the antics of the drivers negotiating the extremely busy junction, pandemonium!! Never seen anything like it, not even Hyde Park Corner. Home around 6.40 and cottage pie for dinner. Exhausted. Bus tour tomorrow.

Thurs.27th.Oct.

Took the train into the centre today, earlier, hoping to avoid queues , much more sensible, the buses were packed and the traffic looked dreadful. Straight to the tourist office and bought tickets for the open top tour bus and the archeobus which takes in the archeological sites. They have audio commentaries and help to understand what you are seeing. Fascinating to see all the sites you've seen a hundred times on TV. Janet is like a child in a sweet shop, we went to the roof of the Palazzo Venizia and had a wonderful view of the whole city. We decided to visit the art gallery at the Villa Borghese and were told we had to book!! I phoned and was told there was no availability until next week. Unbelievable, it's highly recommended in the Lonely Planet guide to Italy, but it must be pretty special to be booked up 5 days in advance. After a kebab lunch we took the Archeobus and for an hour touredsome of the finest ancient sites in the world. Must walk some of them tomorrow. Left home at 9.30 this morning, got home at 6. This sightseeing is hard work let me tell you. Sometimes it's only the gelato that keeps us going.

Fri.28th.Oct.

It's Saturday morning. Got back last night at 7.15 and just about had the energy to eat dinner. Set off at 9.30am for Coliseum. Train to Flaminia, Metro to Termini then another Metro to Coliseum. What a culture shock, even when commuting into London I have not been jammed so tightly into a train, thousands of people with one aim in mind, to get to the Coliseum!! When we arrived it was a pleasant surprise to find that the Roma cards,( €25 each for 3 days and lots of discounts and free admissions ) allowed us to bypass the queue for tickets. €5 each for guided tour and we were in. Just being there was a buzz and we enjoyed the commentary which lasted 45 minutes. The crowds were enormous, we thought we'd come at a quiet time!! The day was perfect, sunshine and 70. History everywhere you look. Although the tour lasted only 45 minutes we spent nearly 4 hours there, drinking our own coffee and eating a picnic. Even then I had to drag Jan out kicking and screaming, she'd have stayed all day. Footsore and a little weary we jumped on the tour bus for a sit down before returning to view the ruins at Palatine Hill. We wanted to hire audio guides and were told that the site closed at 5.30 and we wouldn't have time to hear it all. It was just after 4!! We walked around the sites of Paletine Hill, amazing, the ruins and the park, didn't know where to look next. Shame we couldn't have the commentary. In the museum Jan joined the queue for the toilet, I hung around and she seemed to be taking forever. When I went looking for her she said people kept jumping the queue for the 2 WCs. I stood with her and put a stop to that. Got the train back, again packed like sardines and got home tired but happy. Lots of good pics. Large whisky reward. No gelato today, must have Saturday.


 

Sat.29th.Oct.

Lovely morning, put the shorts on, first time for days. Sun shining, set off for Castel St. Angelo, got train to Flaminia and walked along the Tiber, passing the Palace of Justice, wow!! Arrived at Castle, fabulous walk along embankment with fair, market and street performers to entertain. Charming. The castle itself was fascinating, built over the tomb of the emperor Hadrian and used by Popes in medieval times as a refuge in times of strife. Some of the wall paintings are spectacular and the view from the terrace alone is worth the entrance money. Lunched on piece of pizza and half an orange, shared with Jan on a bench. We're really living it up. On to the Pantheon, spectacular, in a piazza that was exactly what you expect when you think of Rome, so much going on, two or three restaurants with tables outside, several market stalls, buildings of all colours, shapes and sizes and of course the Pantheon itself. Inside is astonishing, it is the oldest surviving cement dome of it's size in the world, 1st century AD. It had such an effect on us that Jan needed a gelato to assist her recovery. We took the archeobus after this, dec ided to view the catacombs of San Sebastian. Had a nasty shock when they told us it was €8 and no discount for the Roma Card. Well, who wants to wander around catacombs when the weather is so good?? They're just old graveyards for heavens sake. Got the bus straight back to town and headed for the station. Had to do some shopping and bought two good sized trout for dinner. I cooked them on the barbecue. Delicious. We're both tired out again and have an early start tomorrow at the Vatican. Heaven help me!!


 

Sun.30th.Oct.

Up at 5.45am. Jan is determined to see a procession we've been told is taking place from Castel San Angelo to St. Peters. Fair enough!! We miss the train by minutes and waited half an hour for the next. A walk along the embankment and we arrived at the castle right on 8am. It was a pleasant experience to walk the streets without crowds of people. Something we would remind ourselves of later. A few people were congregating in the piazza, the women, heads covered by white lacy scarves. A band started to arrive in dribs and drabs and it was clear something was occurring. We walked up towards St. Peters and drank some coffee, and waited. Eventually, at about 9 we saw some action. A man addressed a growing crowd, in Spanish, the band struck up and incense burners were ignited. They were off, singing a slow march dirge, men in purple robes carrying a platform with a large and heavy looking crucifix. Those women swinging the incense burners and other pilgrims, not helping the carriers, walked backwards, very slowly. I know that Jan had expected to see gaudily dressed clerics carrying religious paraphernalia and was a little disappointed, but it helped to pass the time. We made our way to St. Peters Square where a girl offered us a tour of the Vatican museum, including the Sistene Chapel for €25 each. After some hesitation we took up her offer, attracted mainly by the promise that we would not have to queue!! By now there were thousands of people in the square, most of them in the queue. The guide was brilliant, an American who knew his subject well. We pushed and shoved our way with the rest of a group about 30 strong to the entrance of the museum, a walk of at least half a mile and just made it inside before it closed at 12.30. We then were given a detailed explanation of what we would see in the Sistene chapel, prior to going in as silence is demanded inside. There was then the ordeal of half walking, half running through the crowds in the museum to get to the chapel before it closed. As we approached the chapel down a staircase, jammed in a crowd four wide and steaming it became clear that there was a similar crowd coming up a staircase from the opposite direction. Horrendous!! What a scrum, we pushed and shoved our way into the most beautiful room in the world and all I could think was, "get me out of here" , how sad!! We fought our way to the back of the room and found a little space where we could view the walls and ceilings in relative comfort and I have to say I now know what all the fuss is about, spectacular artwork and I would hate to have missed it but the whole experience left me disappointed. It should have been a unique and enjoyable event in my life and I felt a little let down. It was a relief to escape at the end of the tour and explore the wide open spaces of the cavernous St. Peters Basilica. Enormous, I'm tempted to say, just another church but even in a country full of churches this one is special. We stayed maybe 30 minutes but then had to go off in search of gelato and beer. The whole morning had been an endurance test, I ached from head to foot, I was carrying a rucksack which was not particularly heavy but awkward and Janet, although uncomplaining was clearly suffering too. Found gelateria and administered ice cream first aid. Headed for home. This sightseeing is not for the weak and unfit, there were people in our party in wheelchairs, how their carers coped I don't know. An unforgettable experience!! A word of advice for anyone reading this and planning to stay at Camping Flaminia. There is what I would guess is a dog kennels nearby and the only thing which has spoiled our stay here is the constant, relentless barking of a large number of dogs, on one night I don't think Jan slept at all. Apart from that it's great. Monday morning, a lay in and get some housework and washing done. Maybe venture into town in the afternoon and enjoy Rome by night. Watch this space.

Mon.31stOct. Took it easy this morning. As promised, did some washing and housework. Put some stuff on facebook and had scrambled eggs for lunch. Another beautiful day, cloudless sky. After lunch decided to have an hour's siesta before setting out for Rome. Laid down, dogs started barking and two workmen set to work with the noisiest leaf blowers known to man. Not a chance of a kip!! Took myself outside and laid in a chair in the sun, trying to ignore the noise. It will be a relief to get away to somewhere quiet (although I'm not sure such a place exists in Italy). Took the train into town, walked to Vatican to post cards to get Vatican post mark on them. Walked back to Via di Corso, Jan's favourite street, checking out all the jewellers on the way. Looked for two restaurants recommended in Lonely Planet Guide, both no longer in existence!! Found a small place with an attractive menu and took a chance. Fabulous!! Started with wild boar smoked ham, truffle and pecorino cheese, exquisite! Next was tagliatelli, with red snapper roe and truffle, delicious with a main course of Rabbit stew for me and Lamb chops for Jan with French fries and spinach. Accompanied by beer, red wine and fizzy water. For sweet, tiramasou, coffee and brandy completed a sumptuous and memorable meal. A great way to see in my birthday. The bill was horrendous but heh!! You only live once. Birthday tomorrow.


 


 


 


 


 


 

Saturday, 29 October 2011

Mon.24th.Oct.
Oh dear!!  I cut and pasted the last week’s entry onto my blog and it’s disappeared from my journal.  Now I have to figure out how to restore it or I’ll have a big hole where the words should be.  Today was a big work day.  Started out changing the beds, then had a good sweep and dust.  Said goodbye to Hans and Claudia who were heading for more baths at Saturnia.  They invited us but there is a limit to my enthusiasm for sharing hot springs with lots of people.  Went into Viterbo, found launderette and did washing.  ( That is Jan did washing while I sat in cafe with Wifi and did computer stuff.)  Good to know that the blog is out there and there are people reading it.  Found a parking space and had lunch, toast and some fabulous smoked prosciutto and Gorganzola cheese.  (Must be fattening.)  Next went off in search of camping shop.  As usual fell foul of the pausa and had to wait an hour to replenish toilet fluid, rolls and other stuff.  Bought ground sheet for outside the van when on sites, try and keep the grass and mud out of van.  Also bought extending brushes for cleaning van and windscreen, should have bought these long ago.  Now Jan expects me to clean the van more often!!   Next to supermarket for more food.  Where does it all go??  Decided to return to Montefiascone and take advantage of free parking, electricity etc.  Had splendid dinner of pork chops, assorted veg and mashed potatoes with gravy.  If I could have met the pig which provided the tasty chops I’d have shaken his trotter and patted him warmly on the back.  Delicious.  Clever Jan.  Tomoorrow I’m thinking of having a quick look around Viterbo and heading for Rome.  Must break away from this sosta, too convenient and cheap.
Tues.25th.Oct.
That’s it then, made the break.  Did as we planned, quick look at Viterbo, couple of phone calls and hit the road for Rome.  Arrived at a site in Flaminio, about 8 years from the centre.  It’s got everything, including a German youth brass band who are playing the Vatican tomorrow.  They set up this afternoon and rehearsed, giving us a show which we thoroughly enjoyed.  We spent the afternoon sitting in the sun and chilling.  Tomorrow we begin to examine Rome.  Jan’s very excited, so am I.
Wed. 26th.Oct.
Woke up to sound of pouring rain and thunder.  Shame,  but there’s no rush, not going out to spend the day in Rome soaking wet. Bought weekly tickets for the Rome transport system, bus, tram underground and railway.  €16 each, that’s what I call value.  Decided to take the bus into town and have a walk around, too wet to take the open top bus.  Arrived at Piazza di Poppolo and immediately saw the Rome we’d been hoping for.  Walked along the Via della Corso and saw more churches than you could shake a stick at.  Almost as many churches as shops.  Jan loves the shops, they’re in a class of their own.  Took forever to get to the end of Via della Corso, sidetracked by sights on all sides and Trevi Fountain in particular.  Spectacular, it’s enormous, nothing prepares you for the size of it.
 Marched up the Spanish steps then back down again.  We took four hours to get from one end to the other and were rewarded with the spectacle of the Palazzo Venezia, and enormous white building which Musselini hijacked to use for his lodgings.  Beyond that we could glimpse the Coliseum, place we’re looking forward to seeing tomorrow, it was time for a drink.  That was a shock too, a beer and a large bottle of water, €14.  It was almost worth it for the view of the palazzo and the antics of the drivers negotiating the extremely busy junction, pandemonium!!  Never seen anything like it, not even Hyde Park Corner.  Home around 6.40 and cottage pie for dinner.  Exhausted.  Bus tour tomorrow.
Thurs.27th.Oct.
Took the train into the centre today, earlier, hoping to avoid queues , much more sensible, the buses were packed and the traffic looked dreadful.  Straight to the tourist office and bought tickets for the open top tour bus and the archeobus which takes in the archeological sites.  They have audio commentaries and help to understand what you are seeing.  Fascinating to see all the sites you’ve seen a hundred times on TV.  Janet is like a child in a sweet shop, we went to the roof of the Palazzo Venizia and had a wonderful view of the whole city.  We decided to visit the art gallery at the Villa Borghese and were told we had to book!!  I phoned and was told there was no availability until next week.  Unbelievable, it’s highly recommended in the Lonely Planet guide to Italy, but it must be pretty special to be booked up 5 days in advance.  After a kebab lunch we took the Archeobus and for an hour touredsome of the finest ancient sites in the world.  Must walk some of them tomorrow. Left home at 9.30 this morning, got home at 6.  This sightseeing is hard work let me tell you.  Sometimes it’s only the gelato that keeps us going.
Fri.28th.Oct.
It’s Saturday morning.  Got back last night at 7.15 and just about had the energy to eat dinner.  Set off at 9.30am for Coliseum.  Train to Flaminia, Metro to Termini then another Metro to Coliseum.  What a culture shock, even when commuting into London I have not been jammed so tightly into a train, thousands of people with one aim in mind, to get to the Coliseum!!  When we arrived it was a pleasant surprise to find that the Roma cards,( €25 each for 3 days and lots of discounts and free admissions ) allowed us to bypass the queue for tickets.  €5 each for guided tour and we were in.  Just being there was a buzz and we enjoyed the commentary which lasted  45 minutes.  The crowds were enormous, we thought we’d come at a quiet time!!  The day was perfect, sunshine and 70.  History everywhere you look.  Although the tour lasted only 45 minutes we spent nearly 4 hours there, drinking our own coffee and eating a picnic.  Even then I had to drag Jan out kicking and screaming, she’d have stayed all day.  Footsore and a little weary we jumped on the tour bus for a sit down before returning to view the ruins at Palatine Hill.  We wanted to hire audio guides and were told that the site closed at 5.30 and we wouldn’t have time to hear it all.  It was just after 4!!  We walked around the sites of Paletine Hill, amazing, the ruins and the park, didn’t know where to look next.  Shame we couldn’t have the commentary.  In the museum Jan joined the queue for the toilet, I hung around and she seemed to be taking forever.  When I went looking for her she said people kept jumping the queue for the 2 WCs.  I stood with her and put a stop to that.  Got the train back, again packed like sardines and got home tired but happy.  Lots of good pics.  Large whisky reward.  No gelato today, must have Saturday.  

Sat.29th.Oct.
Lovely morning, put the shorts on, first time for days.  Sun shining, set off for Castel St. Angelo, got train to Flaminia and walked along the Tiber, passing the Palace of Justice, wow!!  Arrived at Castle, fabulous walk along embankment with fair, market and street performers to entertain.  Charming.  The castle itself was fascinating, built over the tomb of the emperor Hadrian and used by Popes in medieval times as a refuge in times of strife.  Some of the wall paintings are spectacular and the view from the terrace alone is worth the entrance money.  Lunched on piece of pizza and half an orange, shared with Jan on a bench.  We’re really living it up.  On to the Pantheon, spectacular, in a piazza that was exactly what you expect when you think of Rome, so much going on, two or three restaurants with tables outside, several market stalls, buildings of all colours, shapes and sizes and of course the Pantheon itself.  Inside is astonishing, it is the oldest surviving cement dome of it’s size in the world, 1st century AD.  It had such an effect on us that Jan needed a gelato to assist her recovery.  We took the archeobus after this, dec ided to view the catacombs of San Sebastian.  Had a nasty shock when they told us it was €8 and no discount for the Roma Card.  Well, who wants to wander around catacombs when the weather is so good??  They’re just old graveyards for heavens sake.  Got the bus straight back to town and headed for the station.  Had to do some shopping and bought two good sized trout for dinner.  I cooked them on the barbecue.  Delicious.  We’re both tired out again and have an early start tomorrow at the Vatican.  Heaven help me!!