Tues.18th. Oct.
Disappointing day today. Did some housework before setting off for Todi around 10.30 and were really looking forward to it. Not a long drive but when we arrived at the sosta the barrier was broken and I had to go to the attendant’s office to get on. He informed me that for 24 hours the charge was €15.40. On further inspection there was no emptying point and the toilets looked as though they had been vandalised by the original Vandals, or the Romans!! We decided to look elsewhere for parking, not that the attendant could have cared less. Not surprisingly there wasn’ t a camper van in sight. We drove around for the best part of an hour and couldn’t find suitable parking. Nothing in the book or in the satnav. Had lunch and had one more look around but these people are greedy, no suitable free parking so left town and headed for Orvieto. So here we are, on a proper sosta with hook ups, showers, and all the facilities, including washing machine and tumble drier. Nicely situated next to the main railway line with trains thundering by at 150 mph. €18 per night but too tired to complain. Arrived around 5.30 so hopefully we’ll get a full day looking around tomorrow. Choked about Todi though.
Wed.19th. Oct.
Woke to heavy rain. Seemed a perfect time to take a shower so made full use of these expensive facilities. Took funicular up to the town and walked the last mile up to the cathedral. Stunning is the word that springs to mind. It’s right up there with the best, (I’m becoming a bit of an expert). The art inside is spectacular and the whole experience is very impressive. We had a pork sandwich and coffee for lunch. Must say it’s probably the tastiest pork I’ve ever had and the bread was in a class of its own. Coffee was good too. The restaurant was authentic Italian and full of atmosphere. I suppose it came as no surprise that the bill was €17!! After lunch did the 3 museums which were included in the €5 cathedral entrance tickets. The museum of modern art was interesting enough with mainly sculptures by Greco. The archaeological museum impressed with exhibits from Roman times but the art gallery was probably most impressive. Fabulous paintings and sculptures from as far back as 12th. century. You do wonder why they couldn’t think of something other than biblical scenes to paint though!! There was, in an unlit room, a cape like piece of clothing allegedly with blood stains on it which is claimed to be from the figure of Christ who appeared in an apparition to a local man in 129something. How do people believe this stuff? Well worth the visit though. Hard work all this sight seeing and we had to find a laundrette, lots of washing to do. Found laundrette on foot and went to get van. Impossible to find parking close and after driving around for 45 minutes so reluctantly returned to sosta where we stumped up another €18 for the night. Eventually got the washing done and had dinner about 8.30pm. Had well earned large whisky or two, back to town for more culture tomorrow.
Thurs. 20th.Oct.
Back up to Orvieto this morning to do the tour of the caves underneath the town. Amazing to think that people were digging these tunnels in the 8th.century BC. There are hundreds of tunnels under the town, all man made and to see dovecotes and oil processing plants hundreds of years old created by men using small hand tools challenges the imagination. Had another walk around this really likeable town then reluctantly returned to the van to move on to Montefiascone where there is free sosta with hook-up. Lovely drive over the mountains and set up on sosta. Good thing to get here early as it’s very popular. Set off for walk up to town and got talking to a German couple who are also camped here. Fascinating talking to them and learned a lot. Had a drink in a bar and may join them at a sulphur spring tomorrow. Chicken for dinner.
Fri. 21st.Oct.
Made decision to join our new friends, Hans and Claudia on a trip to thermal springs outside of Viterbo. They tell us that there is a place where camper vans are permitted to park and free, no facilities though, except for the pools which are at a constant 55 degrees C. We did some shopping and took off to find them at the pools. Not easy with the directions we were given but here we are!! The pools are fab, slightly sulphurous but Jan swears they make her feel like a new woman. If you went to a commercial Terme you’d pay a bomb. Suits me!! We bought some expensive steak from a butcher in Montefiascone this morning and Jan made me sit out in the cold and barbecue. Disappointing, tough, unusual for the meat here, flavour was great though. This is a lovely spot, first time since we arrived in Italy where we have seen complete darkness, not a street light in sight, the sky is clear and we could almost touch the stars. This is what it’s all about. No TV. Sky news is driving us crazy. They get into one story and won’t leave it. 3 days ago it was Dale Farm, now it’s Libya and the death of Gadaffi. Must be other stuff going on in the world. Maybe they should come here and film us in the pool. More of the same tomorrow.
Sat.22nd.Oct.
Sat watching red sky change to black at 6.55pm, another perfect sunset!! Dinner cooking, large whisky in hand, Carly Simon on CD player. Spent day wasting time, sitting in pool, walking, talking to Hans and his friend Michael who seems to have spent his life travelling Italy in a camper van, and listening to lots of Italians speaking lots of Italian. Starting to understand a bit of what they’re saying to each other, determined to understand more. Very relaxing. First day I can remember when I have spent no money!! Didn’t miss it. Signs of gelato withdrawl symptoms creeping upon Janet. Texted Eynon last night, got rude reply. Texted to protest and got ruder reply, give up, once a bus driver always a bus driver. May do more of same tomorrow!!
Sun.23rd.Oct.
Well!! So much for peace and quiet. Went to bed at ten, all hell broke loose at some time in the next few hours, cars coming and going and loud voices and then disco music. Apparently, after the local disco turned out the punters decided to continue their fun at the baths. Nightmare, never heard such a noise, no consideration given to those who were trying to sleep. There are advantages to having hearing difficulties, managed to sleep through much of it, unlike Jan, who in addition to being kept awake was also suffering from diahorrea and shivers. The noise seemed to stop around 4am. and some sleep was had. In the morning we took the opportunity to catch up on lost sleep and then headed for Montefiascone and electricity. Slept most of the day and by evening Jan was feeling a bit better. Had a walk into town and phoned Julie and girls. Spag bol for dinner and some dreadful film on CBS drama. This week, heading for Rome. Today was second day in a row we’ve spent no money. No doubt we will make up for it in Rome. Very exciting though. Must make sure Jan’s 100% for Rome.
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